Wednesday, October 5, 2011

Part 2: Detroit … sports town & former motor city

The Stadium
Over the outfield wall of Comerica park sits downtown Detroit. It’s a typical cityscape filled with high-rise office buildings, art deco gems reminding each visitor of America’s past. But when the sun sets and the lights of the ballpark illuminate the field, the city slips into the gritty darkness created by the decay of a failed industry and housing market.  There are few lights, few buildings with tenants willing to pay the bills. But, Comerica Park, finished for the 2000 season, is literally a beacon of hope in a city in need of something, some one in a time of despair. Now, the Tigers are not a perennial powerhouse, but they are in a heated race with Cleveland for the division lead. And even with dwindling attendance there are still fans that cheer and roar and look forward to each and every game.

The people
The office party behind us in section 336 included a mix of fans. There was the life-long Tigers fan that came to 2-3 games a year, and lived and died for the Tigers’ success. He knew every player past and present, loved the Tigers just because, and wished he had more time, more money to come to more ballgames. There was the husband and wife on the end who clearly knew baseball (they quizzed me on what material I included in my class) and were decked out in full Tigers gear. And then there were the two older ladies in the middle: they were at the game because their co-workers were and they knew a night out to Comerica would be fun. What I loved most about this jovial crew sitting only four rows from the upper-most wall of the stadium was how much fun they were having. They were chatting throughout the game, laughing, participating in all the cheers, loving every minute of their shared experience.

“After a 2-hour rain delay, if some die-hard fans wanted to get into this section to watch the end of the game, would you let them sit here?” That’s the question I asked Dave, usher and section 133 guardian. Who hasn’t seen those games on ESPN when the stands are emaciated, anemic with only a few fans? Wouldn’t the players benefit a bit more from the fans’ enthusiasm if they were closer? “I wouldn’t let them near this section even after a 2-hour rain delay,” he answered. I was shocked by Dave’s certainty, his cold-hearted conviction to his job description and unwillingness to let people move down when the season ticket holders or the high price ticket buyers leave their seats because the Tigers are losing or the weather is unwelcoming. But then Dave, who also ushers at Red Wings’ games, told me more about ushering than I ever wanted to know. His stories included details of being under video surveillance to make sure he was checking tickets, hoping he would get his own section (it takes about 15 years before that happens) instead of being a fill-in and floater, missing Gallaraga’s near perfect game because he didn’t work on Tuesdays. He lived and died for the Tigers and the Red Wings and the Lions and the Pistons. He oozed Detroit pride with every request to see a ticket and even when people gave him crap just for doing his job. He’s truly the most devout fan I’ve met thus far.

The City
Outside of the ballpark, Detroit has been a fascinating exploration into some of America’s coolest architecture and one of America’s most dilapidated cities. There is such a stark contrast between one bustling street and the next abandoned one that I had to wonder how the local residents navigated it all. So many of the office buildings downtown are vacant and boarded up. So many of the neighborhoods consist of homes that are falling apart. So many of the major factories look more like war survivors than places where industries thrived. There were times when I took pictures of the buildings and I felt bad. I felt bad for the people who had to drive by then every day, for the people who worked in the factories, for the people who felt the pain of a city on the brink. But with the help of a good friend, we found pockets of life. There was delicious Avalon bakery serving all organic breads and treats. And there was Slow’s BBQ which filled our bellies with some amazing food. We even talked with a few construction workers at the old train depot and found out Detroit and some developers are starting the restoration process. Maybe things aren’t as bad as they look, but I sure do hope the Tigers can hold on to the division lead and give the city a much needed boost.

Game stats
*9 innings of baseball  (first of the trip, but the Tigers lost)
*Homeruns: 1 (Tigers’ Boesch)
*Comerica Park novelties: a carousel with tigers instead of horses, a ferris wheel with baseball carriages, a wild tiger sound echoing throughout the stadium when the Tigers score a run

Cleveland & Pittsburgh call …

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